The choice and use of hail read the full text >>

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Here is the Ice tool, which is different from the usual Ice axe. It is defined as a weight of 600-800 grams and a length of 40-55 centimeters. It is mainly used to climb natural ice walls, or to climb the mix of dry-tooling and ice-rock rocks. Or it is an artificially made ice wall.

When ice climbers talk about the use of hail, they often rely on their own habits and preferences. This is not comprehensive. For example, when the user feels that the swing of the elbow is good when using hailstones, perhaps what others need is a good downward ice performance. The heavier the weight of the hail, it means that the relative reduction in the number of times the ice, but if the arm is insufficient power, fatigue will soon appear. Therefore, before making a purchase decision, it is best to experience as many different styles of hail as possible. Many ice and snow equipment manufacturers have their own set of styles to suit different ice conditions. Before understanding the nature of these, consider the characteristics of these hailstones.

Different types of handles:

The small hailstones can be divided into three types according to the style of the handle: straight-shaft, straight-shaft, bent-shaft, and technical wristbands.

Straight handles such as: Guide, Pulsar, Super Fox, etc., are suitable for climbing up to 80 degrees below the ice wall and climbing.

Most of the technical climbing hailstones on the market today are curved. They have a certain degree of curvature above the broomstick, some arcs are moderate, and some arcs are very large. When you climb ice or ice on a steep terrain, the curved hail will be a good choice. Of course, those hailstones with larger rakes lose their advantage on the slower ice wall. These curved curved hailstones are suitable for climbing large-angle ice walls and ice igloos, and are also the best companions for alpine climbing. They also have advantages in the mixed terrain of snow slopes and ice rocks.

Technical non-wristband curved handles such as Petzl-Charlet Nomic, Petzl-Charlet Quark Ergo, Black Diamond Fusion, etc., are suitable for climbing ice walls above 80 degrees and ice igloo and ice rock mixed routes.

In general, the hail with a smaller handle circumference is easier to grasp and control, which is more profound for people with large palms. It is more appropriate for small palms with fine handles. Many small hailstones now have a protruding pedestal at the end of the shank, making it easier to use when grasping. This is a good design, but when climbing, it is necessary to insert the ice hummer into the snow for protection. Obstruction.

The tip selection:

The narrow tip of the tip of the ice caused by breaking into the fragile ice surface is small, but the tip of the tip is easily bent or broken. For an ice climber, protecting and adjusting the tip is a basic daily task. Most new tips can be used with only a few minor adjustments.

The tip shape is usually divided into four types:

Typical Classic - downward descent styling for climbing and hybrid routes;

Banana-shaped Recurved - has an upward curve, suitable for climbing hanging ice and icicles.

The straight Straight, also known as the Alaskan type, is suitable for climbing in cold and ice conditions.

Tubular tubing—usually used in unpolished ice conditions such as honeycomb ice or soft ice.

The choice of wristband varies from person to person:

The choice of wristbands varies from person to person. Some hailstones have good wristbands at the time of purchase, but they are not necessarily combined. A comfortable wristband is important for climbing.

A good wristband does not hurt your wrist when it provides tension. If the wristband is fixed at the balance point in the middle of the shank, the shank won't lean to one side when the wristband is stressed, and it is also convenient when the shank is returned after the hand is removed. However, some ice climbers prefer to fix the wrist strap on the head of the handle, so that the free movement space of the hand will be larger.

Pay attention to the difference between weight and center of gravity:

The weight of the small hail is generally between 600 and 800 grams. For those who are weaker and prefer to climb the long route, they should choose lighter weight. In this way, you can save power and improve efficiency when you play.

In general, the weight is concentrated on the head of the hail. For different brands of hail, the center of gravity is also different. For example, Petzl-Charlet hail and Black Diamond hail, Petzl-Charlet center of gravity, near the taro, and Black Diamond center of gravity Slightly lower. The weaker ones are suitable for the hailstones where the center of gravity rests, and the more powerful ones can have the lower center of gravity.

Other tips:

When choosing hailstones, it is important to note whether the thickness of the broom handles are combined. If the hand is small, if a thick broomstick is used, the direction of the broom is not easy to control when playing, and when the hand is gripped Laborious and fatigued. There is also the choice of wristbands, because in the climbing process, it needs to do some equipment operations, so it is best to choose the fast pick wristbands to make the operation quick and easy. In addition, special ice climbing gloves should be worn when climbing ice, which can play a role in keeping warm, waterproof and smashing.

The use of hail

Ice climbing mainly consumes upper body strength, so the climber is required to have a certain arm strength and grip strength. If your hailstone is equipped with a wristband, before you climb, you must first adjust the length of the wristband, put on the wristband, hold the handlebar, and hold the hailstone vertically. It feels like the wristband is just supporting the wrist.

The action of waving is: lift up the hailstone, slightly draw backwards on the upper arm, bend the elbow slightly, drive the upper arm to swing with the chest muscles and shoulder muscles, and straighten the elbow so that the tip of the cusp will approach the ice wall in an arc trajectory. The moment the tipper snaps to the ice wall, the wrist rotates forward and downward, while applying some downward and forward pulling force, so that the hailstone will knock into the ice wall at a faster speed and a better angle. For hailstones with large shank bending, the wrist movements may be slightly smaller.

Different hammering methods are used for different ice conditions. For a softer thick ice, accurate and powerful one-off play can be secured. If the ice wall is thick and hard, it is necessary to choose a flat place to drop the weight. Generally, the first grate is slightly lighter. It is used to remove the ice shell that is not strong on the surface of the ice wall. The second grate is slightly heavier, making the gill tip as deep as possible into the ice wall. If the ice wall is thin or hangs from hanging ice, it should be lighter to prevent the ice wall from collapsing. If it is a hollow ice hanging, you should gently knock out a small hole, and then climb the way. When cutting ice, if large pieces of crushed ice fall, other personnel should be reminded to avoid bruises.

When the tip is knocked into the ice wall too deep, it will be very difficult to take it. At this time, avoid turning the ice crucible horizontally or rightward. This will cause the tip of the crucible to distort or even break. Pick up the crucible should be repeated perpendicular to the ice wall to lift the ice rake, or push the top of the hammer or shovel head, cut the ice with the sharp edge of the blade, so that the tip is loose, remove.

If your hail is equipped with a wristband, learn to use the wristband to rest while climbing. When the malleolus is well fixed on the ice wall, you can relax the hand holding the malleolus, straighten your arms, and pull your arm with your wristband to relax your arms and reduce fatigue.

Hail maintenance

Most of you will need a little polish before using it. But when you've climbed an ice-rock hybrid line or a thin ice line, you need to take a rest. Here's how to make a sharp note.

The tip of the ice pickaxe is mostly steel. It must be cleaned in a timely manner to prevent rust. It is also necessary to prevent heavy objects from being hardened. To maintain a sharp tip, after you have a certain feeling of climbing, you can change the tip of the tip to a sharper shape according to your own needs. Note that you should use a file and do not use an electric wheel to prevent the tip from softening.

Sharp tips must be sharpened, and the upper edge should be sharpened. If the angle is too blunt, it will be affected if you enter ice and take it in. If the angle is too small, you will encounter rocks that are easily damaged. In order to make it easier to pull out the tip of the cane, the tip of the tip of the tip can be made shorter and sharper. Many times, the tip will become shorter and shorter. When the tip of the tip is worn too much, it needs to be replaced.

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